Day 4 - Grottaglie
Of all the places we planned to visit during our time in Puglia, Grottaglie was top of my list.
As someone building Moody Merchant around craftsmanship, stories and pieces that bring meaning into a home, I knew this was somewhere special. Grottaglie is known as the ceramic capital of Puglia, a town where clay has been shaped, painted and fired for centuries. The moment you arrive, ceramics seem to spill from every doorway, workshop and courtyard.
Beneath Grottaglie lies a network of ancient caves where the town's rich clay was once extracted,helping establish its centuries-old ceramic tradition. During our visit to the Fasano workshop, we also saw the original wood-fired kilns, now preserved as a reminder of the town's remarkable heritage. Together, the caves, clay and kilns tell the story of how generations of artisans transformed local materials into the beautiful ceramics for which Grottaglie is famous today
There is something magical about seeing the entire process in front of you. From the first lump of clay on the wheel to the hand-painting, glazing and firing, every piece passes through skilled hands. In a world of mass production, watching artisans create ceramics one piece at a time felt incredibly special. The workshop still carries out the full production process in-house, preserving traditional techniques while continuing to evolve creatively.
The Fasano name is woven into the history of Grottaglie ceramics. The family’s ceramic heritage can be traced back to 1623, with generation after generation working as potters, decorators and kiln masters. Today, the family remains one of the most respected names in Apulian ceramics, carrying forward traditions that have been passed down for almost four hundred years.
Walking through the workshop was one of the highlights of our trip.
What struck me most throughout the visit was the balance between heritage and innovation. The Fasano family clearly respects centuries of tradition, yet they continue to create pieces that feel relevant and desirable today. It is exactly the type of craftsmanship I am hoping to discover through Letters From Puglia and, ultimately, through Moody Merchant.
As I walked through the factory, surrounded by shelves of drying clay, stacks of plates waiting to be glazed and generations of knowledge passed from one artisan to another, I was reminded why I started this journey.
I don’t simply want to fill a home with objects.
I want to fill it with stories.
Stories of the people who made them, the places they came from and the memories attached to finding them. The Fasano workshop gave me all of that and more. And yes, I am still thinking about those splatter bowls. They may well be one of my favourite finds from Puglia so far.
And after meeting the wonderful family we have agreed to set up a wholesale contract with them so I can now supply their stunning pieces to you too. I am absolutely full of happiness about this as it’s the reason I came to Puglia and something that will keep me coming back for years. I hope to build up a great relationship with this fabulous brand.
Keep your eyes peeled for the pieces I choose. I planned to go back before I leave and make a few choices so if you are interested in anything in particular now is the time to speak up. Message me or Email me and I can choose you some lovely pieces within my order for Moody Merchant.
After our time at the Fasano Ceramiche we stepped across the road to the workshop of EX Frantoio to try our hand on the pottery wheel. This was not as easy as it looks, between air bubbles, wobbly pots and stiff necks we managed to pull together something not to bad. We really enjoyed our morning and truly felt that Moody Merchant has taken another step forward.
Watch Out Grottaglie, you may have competition :-)
Love and Best Wishes
Clare x